LES ROBES EN COULEUR

Charleston Museum via Katherine C-G

Mary Lincoln’s Purple Velvet Ensemble This outfit believed to have been made by African American dressmaker Elizabeth Keckly and worn by the first lady during the winter social season of 1861–62. All three pieces are piped with white satin. The daytime bodice is trimmed with mother-of pearl buttons. Its lace collar is of the period but is not original to the bodice. The evening bodice is trimmed with lace and chenille fringed braid. National Museum of American History

Afternoon dress ca. 1865, American (silk,metal) The influence that military uniforms played on women's dress during the years of the Civil War is evident here. Women reflected their patriotism readily in their mode of dress to help encourage the soldiers on to victory. Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Charleston Museum via Kelly Blye

Charleston Museum via Beth Cartlidge

Starched organdy dress, 1865. Typical of mid-19th century styling, worn by Marianna Heyward (b. 1844) when she married Benjamin Walter Taylor on December 14, 1865. They had 8 children, including early 20th century artist Anna Heyward Taylor. During the Civil War, Benjamin had served as a surgeon, becoming the Medical Director of the Calvary Corps of the Army of Northern VA. Charleston Museum.

Printed wool in an ombre floral stripe, probably American, ca 1863; high bodice, bishop sleeves, sleeve caps trimmed with green wool braid, knife pleated skirt. Note that the sleeves are box pleated into the armscye and pleated into the wristband to maximize the sleeves, which minimizes the 25" waist. Philadelphia Museum of Art.

Day dress of black wool printed with tiny purple flowers, c. 1865. The fan front bodice would probably have been worn with a white cotton chemisette, to fill in the neckline. The full skirt features directional pleating – the pleats change direction on either side of the central box pleat. This dress was worn by Evaline Sarah Walton and was made by her daughter, Mary Louisa Robertson. Charleston Museum.

Green taffeta dress in two parts (bodice), American, about 1865. Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

British cotton and wool dress ca. 1865. Metropolitan Museum of Art.