CHAPEAU ET BONET DE DAME

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CHEZ jOSETTE

modèles proposés par La Mode illustrée, journal de la famille, entre 1860 et 1865

chapeau de paille

Coiffe
Vers 1860, 19e siècle
31.5 x 16 cm
Don de Messrs. Papineau
M10608
© Musée McCord

Coiffe
Vers 1850, 19e siècle
25 x 25 cm
Don de la succession de la famille Meekram
M966.58.1
© Musée McCord

Bonnet
Vers 1850, 19e siècle
Don de Max G. Le Marchant, 1949
1949.55
Cet artefact appartient au : © Musée du Nouveau-Brunswick

un modèle plus campagnard:

Bonnets, Hats & Caps
A simple, neat hairstyle was all a lady really needed when she was indoors. A bonnet or hat was essential when ladies ventured outside, however. One always wears a hat or bonnet when in public!

Bonnets
Bonnets were functional or purely decorative in nature. A bonnet kept your head warm in winter, protected you from the sun in summer, preserved hairstyles from the ravages of wind, or displayed your elegant good taste with their elaborate decoration. Fancy bonnets were generally held in place with long, flowing ties or ribbon (a yard is not too long) so that a lovely bow could be tied under the chin and the ends would flutter down as far as the waistline.

Spoon Bonnets These were very fashionable during the Civil War. The spoon bonnet served no function other than to frame the face with an elaborately decorated brim. The brim rose straight up off the forehead and was sometimes quite tall. The decorations on this type of bonnet were placed inside the brim, rather than on the crown. The inside brim was decorated with rows of ruffles, lace or silk flowers. These bonnets also featured a bavolet. Younger, wealthier or more fashionable women would be most likely to adopt this style of bonnet.

Sunbonnets The ubiquitous sunbonnet was universally worn in a variety of fabrics form plain to fancy. They were designed to shade the face & neck from the tanning effects of the sun. The brim of fabric bonnets, most often identified with frontier and farm women, was usually stiffened with inset slats of wood or by sewing rows of piping to the fabric, so that it projected over the face and provided shade. These bonnets covered the hair completely. A little fabric or lace "cape" was attached to the back of the bonnet to shade the neck and disguise untidy nape hairs. This cape was also called a bavolet or curtain.

Sunbonnet brims were sometimes crafted of straw in a variety of styles, and were plain or decorated with fabrics, lace, ribbon or braid. Silk flowers were very popular for adorning bonnets--feathers did not come into style until after the war. The inside brim of fancy sunbonnets were often decorated with rows of ruffles or lace.

Hats
Civil War era women wore a variety of styles in hats. Fabric hats in numerous styles were created. Felt and fur hats kept the head warm in the winter. Since reenactments are generally held in the summer, you will see many straw hats in evidence. Straw hats were light, they could breath, and they shaded & cooled the wearer.

Large straw sunhats were used then, as today, for maximum cooling and shade in the hot sun. The period term for these hats were "Chapeau du Jardin" (Garden hat). Plain, undecorated versions would have been donned by working women toiling in the sun. Elaborately decorated versions were worn by the more fashionable, sometimes embellished with lace or veiling draping from the edges.

Caps
These were elaborate little confections that were pinned into the hair. Their purpose was to neaten up appearance or to camouflage thinning hair in older women. Generally, these were worn around the home or to casual occasions among friends. Caps can be a very effective ploy to hide a modern or short hairstyle when at a reenactments. Excellent for covering up a bad hair day, too.

Caps were worn back on the crown of the head. The fabric of the cap was usually long enough to conceal the hair to the nape of the neck, occasionally longer. Caps were often elaborately decorated with lace, ruffles, ruching or ribbon.

More Images and Information
For more images of period hat styles, be sure to check out Miss Vera's Millinery! This page features numerous period images of bonnets, as well as museum photos of actual Civil War era bonnets & hats.

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